Great Punchard’s Gill and Williams Gill

Great Punchard’s Gill and Williams Gill

OL30 about 8 or 9 miles

I parked the car just near Whaw and set off about 10.45am. 

The walk starts back along the road from where I parked by about 100 yards or so, then sets off in a westerly direction along a well made track. 

 Once again, we have grouse shooting to thank for what is under foot. The wind was coming directly from the west, so was blowing right in my face. It continued to do so for much of the walk, particularly on the ‘up’ section, which was most of the first two and a half hours!

The sky was variable - occasional flashes of blue, but mostly dull and grey, but the views were stunning

 Before too long, I came to a ford - the first of several, it turns out. 

The last time I came to this point, it was in the autumn and the stones you can see here were completely under water. The stream was rushing across and the path was impassable and I had to turn back, despite looking for some time for an alternative crossing.

This 'dry' stream bed (it isn't actually as dry as it looks) was filled with water on the last occasion:

 A view up Little Punchard's Gill, which runs to the left of Great Punchard's Gill:

Shortly after crossing the ford, the track forks. The first time I tried this walk, I took the left fork and walked along Little Punchard's Gill, till the track vanished underfoot, then I struck out across a faint path over the moor, to reach Great Punchard's Gill, somewhere near the top of it. This time, however, I took the right fork. As you can see, the track leads upwards, albeit not very steeply (at this stage, anyway)!

In fact, after that short rise, the track heads downhill towards some defunct mine workings

You can just make out the track rising again in the distance, near the darker moor top:

 The bridge would make a good place to stop for lunch, which is where I stopped the first time I came here, though travelling in the other direction on that occasion.

 These buildings have been here since the late nineteenth century or early twentieth century - they are in remarkably good repair considering how long they have been left to nature. If the weather is poor (as it was today - the sky was beginning to brighten, but it was still very windy and cold), then there is a stone slab inside these arches where you could sit and eat,, sheletered from the elements. However, it was far too early for lunch, so I passed them by

 The track continued in its upward direction. Is this the top?

Not by a long shot!

Maybe this one then?

 It's a long way down!

No, still not the top!

This one?

At last! The track levelled off and even descended a bit.

But my joy was short lived. I came to a fork in the track - guess which one is my path? You got it - the right fork!

Under foot was harder going too. Previously I had had easy going well made tracks; these were now replaced with large lumps of rock, which were less than firm.

The top was reached at last, though even here, there is a slight rise. I am now on West Moor, heading pretty much due west and still battling the westerly wind in my face.

The moor top was bleak, empty and quite beautiful:

The sunshine was tantalisingly close - just over the edge, but to my right. I wasn't going to walk into it the direction I was headed.

Finally, right on the top, where the path became narrower and headed flat across the moor, I realised I had headed right into some 'weather' - it was hail stoning - ouch! They were cold and sharp and right in my face, thrown there fiercely by the wind. I pulled my bandana over my nose, which helped slightly, but every time I breathed out, the bandana sent to warm air up and under my sunglasses (worn not to keep the sun off, but to keep the wind out!), which basically meant I was so misted up, I couldn't see where I was going. Not such a good move really, as I was now walking on a very narrow path through the heather and right on the edge of a steep drop to my right.

 Once the hail had passed, the sun came out but the wind did not abate.

With the path now being so narrow, I was concerned I might miss the right turn I knew was coming up soon. I needn't have worried - the path was really clear as the path gave way to grouse tracks again.

 The path crossed a stream that flows down Williams Gill:

 Then finally, the track headed downstream and more importantly, downhill! The sky cleared more and the sun was really pleasant. The path was also more sheltered as the track runs close to the stream instead of over the tops.

 This is a panorama of the high moor top I had just come over:

Several fords needed to be crossed. It was probably just as well I hadn't been able to get across the first one last autumn, because I doubt I could have managed these others either! Now, will my boots keep the water out?

The path headed off into the distance:

Ford number two:

The third crossing, but at least there was a bridge this time - of sorts. From a distance, it looked like it was made of two iron girders with wooden planks across from one to the other - except the planks didn't look too safe!!

TI decided to cross carefully as far from the sagging side as possible and thought I would use the girder itself if it became necessary. I did wonder why it hadn't been fixed as the vehicles for the grouse shooting must surely still drive over here. However, as soon as I stepped onto it, I realised my mistake - it wasn't wooden planks at all, but concrete ones. Still didn't look very safe though!

The hills in the distance looked lovely in the sunshine:

Fourth crossing - another ford:

 Finally, I reached the end of the path where it joins the road where a helpful signpost told me where I had been:

The rest of the walk was going to be on the road. It's not my favourite terrain, but to do this walk, there really is no other option. It would be about three miles to reach the car again.

It seemed to stretch out forever:

There's a nice house that appears to be empty part way along the road. I'd love to live there! But no supermarket within about twenty miles!!

...and it isn't too remote ;) Well, I am standing on a road!! (The road which runs from Reeth over to Tan Hill).

Before too long, the weather arrived again - more hail stones and buffeting wind. Thankfully, this time it was coming from behind! But it wasn't too far now - the second stand of trees hides Whaw

 This is where the stream that flows down Great Punchard's Gill meets the road and flows off to the left.

The car came into view - mine is the one half hidden behind the wall